Buying Guides

DIY Bathroom Remodel Guide: What You Can Do Yourself

A task-by-task breakdown of which bathroom remodel projects are genuinely DIY-friendly, which require a licensed plumber or electrician, and how to choose the right toilet, vanity, and fixtures when you do the work yourself.

Why Trust Best Flushing Toilets

Flushing power and MaP flush-test scores
Water efficiency (GPF and EPA WaterSense)
Aggregated owner reviews
Clog resistance and trapway design
Brand reliability and warranty

Research updated June 2026.

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Quick Answer

Most homeowners can safely handle toilet swaps, vanity replacements, tile work, paint, lighting upgrades, and accessory installs. Drain relocation, new supply lines through walls, and panel-level electrical work require licensed pros. The biggest cost savings come from swapping a toilet yourself: labor runs $150-$300 per unit at most plumbing rates.

What tools and permits do you need before starting a DIY bathroom remodel?

Most DIY bathroom work -- toilet replacement, vanity swap, tile, paint -- does not require a permit in the majority of U.S. jurisdictions. However, any project that moves or adds a drain, vent stack, or electrical circuit typically requires a permit and inspection. Always check with your local building department before opening walls or moving fixtures.

Core tools for a bathroom remodel include: adjustable wrenches, channel-lock pliers, a hacksaw, utility knife, level, tape measure, cordless drill, tile wet saw (rental), caulk gun, and a toilet auger. A shop vac is critical when removing an old toilet.

A bathroom remodel ranks among the most valuable home improvement projects for resale, and a surprisingly large portion of the work is within reach of a careful DIYer. The key is knowing the boundary between skill-based tasks (tile, paint, fixture swaps) and code-governed work (structural, electrical panel, drain relocation).

This guide walks through every major bathroom remodel task, rates its DIY difficulty, lists the tools required, and flags where you need to pull a permit or call a pro. Throughout, we focus heavily on toilet replacement -- the single highest-impact fixture upgrade in any bathroom -- and reference published MaP flush-test data, EPA WaterSense certifications, and aggregated owner reviews to help you choose wisely.

Expert Take

The National Kitchen and Bath Association reports that the average mid-range bathroom remodel runs $12,000-$20,000 when fully contracted. Homeowners who handle toilet replacement, vanity installation, tile, paint, and lighting themselves typically recover 30-45% of total labor costs. The toilet swap alone saves most people $200-$350 in plumbing fees and takes 2-3 hours with basic tools.

Which bathroom remodel tasks can most homeowners do themselves?

Toilet replacement, vanity and sink swaps, mirror and medicine cabinet installs, paint, tile over existing substrate, shower head replacement, and most lighting fixture swaps (same-box replacements) are all considered DIY-friendly by most building departments. These tasks involve connecting to existing supply and drain lines rather than moving them.

The skill ceiling is highest for tile work -- specifically achieving level, evenly-spaced tile with clean grout joints around obstacles -- but even novice tilers routinely succeed on floor and tub surrounds with adequate prep time.

DIY Difficulty Rating by Task

Task	DIY Difficulty	Permit Needed?	Typical Time	Pro Labor Saved
Toilet replacement (same rough-in)	Easy	No (most jurisdictions)	2-3 hours	$150-$300
Vanity + sink swap (same drain location)	Easy-Moderate	No (most jurisdictions)	3-5 hours	$200-$400
Shower head replacement	Easy	No	30-60 min	$80-$150
Bathroom paint	Easy	No	Half day	$200-$500
Floor tile (over existing substrate)	Moderate	No (most jurisdictions)	1-2 days	$400-$900
Tub/shower tile surround	Moderate-Hard	No (most jurisdictions)	2-3 days	$600-$1,400
Light fixture (same box)	Easy	No	1-2 hours	$100-$200
Faucet replacement	Easy-Moderate	No	1-2 hours	$120-$220
Exhaust fan (same circuit)	Moderate	Sometimes	2-4 hours	$150-$350
Drain relocation	Hard / Pro recommended	Yes	1-2 days+	N/A
New electrical circuit / GFCI outlet	Moderate-Hard	Yes	4-8 hours	$200-$500
Subfloor repair	Moderate-Hard	No	Half-full day	$300-$800

How do you replace a toilet yourself, step by step?

Toilet replacement is the most impactful DIY task in a bathroom remodel. Turn off the supply valve, flush and sponge out remaining water, disconnect the supply line, remove the two floor bolts, rock the toilet free of the wax ring, scrape the flange clean, set new wax ring, position new toilet, hand-tighten floor nuts, reconnect supply line, and test. The full process takes most first-timers 2-3 hours.

Measure your rough-in (center of drain to finished wall) before buying -- standard is 12 inches, though 10-inch and 14-inch rough-ins exist in older homes. Buying the wrong rough-in is the most common and costly beginner mistake.

Step-by-Step Toilet Replacement

Step 1: Measure your rough-in. Pull the toilet seat up and measure from the center of the floor bolts (covered by plastic caps at the toilet base) to the finished wall behind the toilet. Standard is 12 inches. Check out our toilet rough-in measurement guide for a detailed walkthrough.

Step 2: Choose a toilet that fits the space. For elongated bowls in tight bathrooms, measure from the wall to the front of the current bowl and verify the new model fits. Most elongated toilets project 28-31 inches from wall to front.

Step 3: Shut off the water. Turn the supply valve clockwise until it stops. Flush the toilet to empty the tank and bowl as much as possible. Sponge or towel out remaining water from both tank and bowl.

Step 4: Disconnect the supply line. Use channel-lock pliers to loosen the supply line nut at the bottom of the tank. Have a towel ready for residual drips.

Step 5: Remove the floor bolt caps and nuts. Pry off the plastic caps covering the floor bolts with a flathead screwdriver. Use an adjustable wrench to remove the nuts. If bolts spin, grip with pliers while turning the nut.

Step 6: Rock and lift the old toilet. Two-piece toilets are heavy (tank alone can be 25 lbs, bowl 60+ lbs). Remove the tank first: unscrew the two tank bolts from inside the tank, lift it free, set it aside. Then rock the bowl gently side to side to break the wax seal, and lift straight up. Carry it out immediately -- old wax is messy.

Step 7: Inspect and clean the flange. Check the toilet flange for cracks. A cracked or broken flange needs repair before the new toilet goes down -- a damaged flange is the most common reason toilets rock or leak at the base. See our toilet flange repair guide for repair options. Scrape all old wax from the flange with a putty knife.

Step 8: Install new closet bolts and set the wax ring. If the old bolts are corroded, replace them. Slide new bolts into the flange slots. Press the wax ring onto the bottom of the new toilet bowl (horn side facing outward), or set the ring on the flange -- either method works.

Step 9: Set the new toilet. Lower the bowl straight down onto the flange, aligning the floor bolts through the holes in the toilet base. Apply even downward pressure -- do not rock -- to seat the wax ring fully. For two-piece toilets, set the bowl first, then mount the tank using the supplied bolts and rubber gasket.

Step 10: Secure and finish. Hand-tighten the floor nuts, then snug with a wrench -- alternate sides, and do not overtighten or you will crack the porcelain base. Trim bolt excess with a hacksaw. Snap the caps on. Reconnect the supply line. Turn water back on slowly and check for leaks. Apply a thin bead of caulk around the toilet base (leave the back open to detect future leaks). Let the caulk cure 24 hours before use.

Expert Take

The most common DIY toilet installation errors are: overtightening the floor bolts (cracks the base), using too much wax (ring compresses poorly), and not checking that the flange is at the correct height above the finished floor. The flange should sit flush with or up to 1/4 inch above the finished floor. If the flange is too low due to a new tile floor, use a flange extender -- do not stack wax rings.

Which toilet should you buy for a DIY bathroom remodel?

For most DIY remodels, a two-piece toilet from TOTO, Kohler, or American Standard in the $200-$500 range delivers proven flush performance, wide parts availability, and easy installation. Look for EPA WaterSense certification (1.28 GPF or less), a MaP flush score of 800 grams or higher, and a fully-glazed trapway to reduce clogs. One-piece models are easier to clean but heavier to install alone.

Comfort height (16.5-18 inches seat height, also called ADA height) is now preferred by most adults and is standard on nearly all mid-range and premium models. Standard height (14-15 inches) suits smaller children but can be harder to rise from for taller adults.

Top Toilets for DIY Remodels

The models below are chosen based on published MaP flush-test scores, EPA WaterSense certification status, aggregated owner review data, and ease of DIY installation. All are available in standard 12-inch rough-in. We look at the best flushing toilets in detail in our main roundup.

Best Overall

TOTO Drake II Two-Piece Toilet (CST454CEFG)

4.8 Best For: All-around remodel performance

The TOTO Drake II is the most consistently recommended two-piece toilet for DIY remodels, with a MaP score of 1,000 grams (the maximum), 1.28 GPF EPA WaterSense certification, and TOTO's E-Max siphon jet flush technology that generates a forceful, quiet flush with minimal water.

MaP Score1,000 g (max)

Flush Volume1.28 GPF

Bowl ShapeElongated

HeightComfort (17.25")

Rough-In12" standard

Pros

Maximum MaP score means near-zero clog rate in owner reviews
E-Max flush is quiet compared to pressure-assist alternatives
SanaGloss (CeFiONtect) glaze reduces stain and mineral adhesion
Tank and bowl ship separately, easier to carry upstairs alone
TOTO parts widely available; strong service network

Cons

Seat sold separately, adding $40-$120 to total cost
Exposed trapway (two-piece design) requires more cleaning effort
Tank lid can feel loose on some units per owner reports

The Drake II has been in continuous production for over a decade, which means parts (flappers, fill valves, tank bolts) are universally stocked at hardware stores. For a DIY remodel where you want to install once and forget it for 20 years, this is the lowest-risk choice. The separate tank and bowl make two-person installation optional -- one person can carry each piece.

The SanaGloss glaze measurably reduces the need for scrubbing in hard-water areas. Owner reviews consistently cite the flush as one of the quietest gravity-fed units available, which matters if the bathroom shares a wall with a bedroom.

Expert Take

The Drake II holds a 1,000-gram MaP score, the highest possible on the MaP testing scale, meaning it cleared the full test load in a single flush with no residue in independent laboratory conditions. Paired with 1.28 GPF efficiency, it saves roughly 6,400 gallons per year compared to an older 3.5 GPF toilet in a four-person household.

Check price on Amazon

Bottom Line: The TOTO Drake II is the most reliable choice for a DIY bathroom remodel -- maximum flush performance, quiet operation, and parts available everywhere.

Best Value

American Standard Champion 4 Two-Piece Toilet

4.5 Best For: Budget-conscious DIY remodels

The American Standard Champion 4 features a 4-inch flush valve and 2-3/8 inch fully-glazed trapway -- the largest commercially available trapway in standard residential toilets -- giving it one of the strongest single-flush performances at its price point.

MaP Score1,000 g (max)

Flush Volume1.6 GPF

Bowl ShapeElongated

HeightComfort (16.5")

Rough-In12" standard

Pros

Largest trapway in standard residential toilets reduces clog risk dramatically
1,000-gram MaP score -- maximum rating
Seat included with most retail packages
EverClean glaze surface inhibits bacterial and mold growth
Widely available at big-box retailers for same-day pickup

Cons

1.6 GPF is above EPA WaterSense threshold (not certified)
Tank fill noise louder than TOTO equivalents per owner reports
Bulkier tank profile than competitors in same class

The Champion 4's oversized 4-inch flush valve releases water faster than the 2 to 3-inch valves on most competitors, which is the key reason it handles heavy loads in a single flush. American Standard's aggregated owner data shows a below-average return rate for clog complaints compared to the category average.

At 1.6 GPF the Champion 4 uses slightly more water than WaterSense-certified models (1.28 GPF). In a typical household this adds roughly 2,000-3,000 gallons per year versus a 1.28 GPF alternative. For renters or landlords prioritizing no-callback durability over water savings, the trade-off is reasonable.

Expert Take

American Standard's 2-3/8 inch fully glazed trapway is the widest available on any residential toilet. The glaze extends through the full trapway channel, reducing the friction coefficient that causes waste to stick. Most clog failures in residential toilets occur when a partial obstruction combines with a low-force flush -- the Champion 4's wide trapway and high-volume flush address both failure modes simultaneously.

Check price on Amazon

Bottom Line: The American Standard Champion 4 is the go-to pick for DIYers who prioritize zero-clog performance and want a toilet available same-day at their local home center.

Best One-Piece

Woodbridge T-0001 One-Piece Toilet

4.4 Best For: Modern aesthetic remodels

The Woodbridge T-0001 is a fully skirted one-piece toilet with dual-flush technology (1.0/1.6 GPF), a concealed trapway, and a soft-close seat included -- making it the most visually contemporary option in this guide at a price well below TOTO and Kohler one-piece alternatives.

Flush Volume1.0/1.6 GPF dual-flush

Bowl ShapeElongated

HeightComfort (16.5")

Rough-In12" standard

SeatSoft-close included

Pros

Skirted design hides trapway for a contemporary, easy-clean look
Dual-flush saves water on liquid waste (1.0 GPF half-flush)
Soft-close seat included -- significant add-on value
One-piece construction eliminates tank-to-bowl leak point
Strong owner satisfaction on modern bathroom aesthetics

Cons

One-piece units weigh 90-105 lbs -- requires two people for installation
MaP score data for some Woodbridge configurations is not publicly listed
Skirted base requires longer bolts (usually included) and careful alignment

For DIY remodels targeting a modern or spa-style aesthetic, the Woodbridge T-0001 delivers a look that outperforms its price point. The skirted design eliminates the dust-trapping crevices around an exposed trapway, reducing cleaning time noticeably per owner reviews.

The dual-flush button on the tank top is the only functional trade-off: dual-flush mechanisms have historically had higher failure rates than single-flush flappers. Woodbridge includes a 5-year warranty, and replacement parts are available, though not as universally stocked as TOTO or Kohler components at local hardware stores.

Expert Take

Skirted toilets are increasingly preferred in master bathroom remodels because they reduce visual complexity and simplify floor cleaning. For a DIY install, the key challenge is that the skirted base conceals the floor bolts and requires more precise alignment before setting. Pre-mark the bolt locations with tape on the floor before lowering the toilet to avoid repositioning a 100-pound piece.

Check price on Amazon

Bottom Line: The Woodbridge T-0001 is the best-value one-piece skirted toilet for a modern DIY bathroom remodel where aesthetics are a priority alongside function.

Best for Water Savings

Kohler Cimarron Comfort Height Two-Piece Toilet

4.5 Best For: EPA WaterSense compliance + easy install

The Kohler Cimarron is EPA WaterSense certified at 1.28 GPF with a Class Five flushing technology that achieves a 1,000-gram MaP score in independent testing. It is among the most widely stocked toilets at home improvement retailers, making it a safe same-day purchase for a remodel.

MaP Score1,000 g (max)

Flush Volume1.28 GPF

Bowl ShapeElongated

HeightComfort (16.5")

Rough-In12" standard

Pros

EPA WaterSense certified -- qualifies for utility rebates in many states
Class Five flush system earns 1,000-gram MaP at 1.28 GPF
Kohler parts universally available at hardware stores
Wide range of color options beyond standard white
Kohler 1-year limited warranty with strong service network

Cons

Seat sold separately on most configurations
Mid-range finish quality -- some owners report glazing imperfections at budget price points
Exposed trapway on two-piece version requires more cleaning

EPA WaterSense certification matters practically: many water utilities offer $50-$150 rebates for replacing pre-1994 toilets (which used 3.5-5 GPF) with WaterSense models. The Cimarron qualifies for most programs. Check the EPA WaterSense rebate finder at epa.gov/watersense before purchasing to see whether your utility participates.

For DIY installers who want the most conventional installation experience, Kohler's two-piece construction, standard footprint, and universal 12-inch rough-in make the Cimarron one of the easiest to work with. Kohler's fill valve and flapper are both available at virtually any hardware or big-box store.

Expert Take

Kohler's Class Five flushing technology uses a 3.25-inch flush valve with an accelerated water path designed to create high flush velocity with lower water volume. The result is that the Cimarron achieves 1,000-gram MaP performance at 1.28 GPF -- proof that flush volume and flush power are not the same metric. When comparing toilets, MaP score is the correct measure of real-world performance, not GPF alone.

Check price on Amazon

Bottom Line: The Kohler Cimarron is the best WaterSense-certified toilet for a DIY remodel when utility rebates and parts availability are priorities.

What should you never DIY in a bathroom remodel?

Any work that requires moving a drain line, relocating a vent stack, running a new electrical circuit from the panel, or disturbing structural walls should be left to licensed contractors. These tasks require permits, inspections, and in most jurisdictions, licensed professionals. Unpermitted work can void homeowner's insurance, complicate home sales, and create safety hazards.

Specifically: moving the toilet to a different location requires repositioning the drain and vent stack, which is a licensed plumbing job. Adding a GFCI outlet or a new dedicated circuit for a heated floor, towel warmer, or bidet toilet requires an electrician permit in most U.S. jurisdictions. Never bypass these requirements.

When to Stop and Call a Plumber

Broken toilet flange: A cracked or fully broken flange cannot be DIY-patched with wax alone. Flange repair kits (stainless steel repair rings) work for minor chips, but if the flange is broken at or below the floor, a licensed plumber should assess whether the drain collar needs replacement. See our detailed toilet flange repair guide for the full decision tree.

Drain relocation: Moving a toilet drain even a few inches requires cutting into the concrete slab or subfloor and repositioning the DWV (drain-waste-vent) piping. This is permitted work in all jurisdictions and requires a plumbing rough-in inspection before the floor is closed. It is never a DIY task for a first-timer and is rarely economical for experienced DIYers either given the equipment involved.

Sewer smell that persists after a new wax ring: Persistent sewer gas odor after a toilet replacement suggests a venting problem or a broken sewer line -- not a wax ring failure. This requires a camera inspection of the drain line, which is a plumber's job.

Low water pressure throughout the bathroom: If the supply valve or supply line is corroded to the point of crumbling, or if you discover galvanized pipe behind the wall, replacing it to code requires a plumber in most states. Do not attempt to thread onto severely corroded galvanized pipe -- it can fracture and cause flooding.

Expert Take

The critical distinction in any DIY bathroom remodel is "same location vs. new location." Replacing every fixture in the bathroom at its existing location -- toilet, vanity, tub, shower head -- is broadly achievable by a careful DIYer. Moving any fixture to a new drain location is a licensed plumbing project. That single rule covers the vast majority of permit and inspection requirements homeowners encounter.

Vanity and Sink Replacement Tips

Vanity replacement follows the same logic as toilet replacement: if the drain and supply lines stay in the same location, it is a DIY-friendly task. The sequence is: shut off supply valves, disconnect P-trap and supply lines, loosen mounting screws securing the old vanity to the wall, remove the unit, install the new unit, reconnect supply lines and P-trap, seal the backsplash with silicone caulk.

If the new vanity is a different height (standard is 32-34 inches; comfort height is 36 inches), confirm the supply stub-outs and drain location still align. Most supply lines have enough flexibility; a drain height mismatch may require adjusting the P-trap arm, which is within DIY scope.

Tile Work: What to Know Before Starting

Floor tile is the most common tile DIY project and the most forgiving. Key requirements: a flat, structurally sound substrate (cement board over plywood, or directly over concrete); appropriate thin-set for the tile type and substrate; tile spacers for consistent grout joints; and a wet saw for cuts around the toilet flange and vanity base.

Tub and shower surround tile is significantly more demanding. The substrate must be 100% waterproof -- standard drywall is never acceptable in wet areas. Use cement board with waterproofing membrane, or a full tile-ready shower system (Schluter Kerdi, Wedi, or similar). Tile failure in shower surrounds is almost always a substrate failure, not a grout failure. Budget 30-40% of the tile project time for substrate preparation.

See our bathroom tile buying guide for substrate selection, grout type guidance, and layout planning for common bathroom shapes.

Electrical Work in a DIY Bathroom Remodel

Replacing a light fixture in the same electrical box -- same wiring, same number of fixtures -- is legal DIY work in most U.S. jurisdictions and does not require a permit. Adding a vanity light bar, mirror light, or exhaust fan-light combination to an existing circuit and box is also typically within scope.

Anything requiring a new circuit from the panel, or adding an outlet where none existed, requires a permit. GFCI outlets are required by current NEC code within 6 feet of any bathroom water source. Replacing an existing outlet with a GFCI outlet (same box, same wiring) is DIY-legal. Installing a new outlet requires an electrician permit in most jurisdictions.

Heated floor systems (electric radiant) operate on a dedicated circuit and always require a permit and inspection. They are an excellent DIY installation task in terms of the floor mat itself, but the electrical connection must be made by a licensed electrician or inspected per local code.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a permit to replace a toilet?

In most U.S. jurisdictions, a like-for-like toilet replacement (same location, same drain) does not require a permit. Always verify with your local building department, as rules vary by city and state. Moving a toilet to a different location requires a permit in all jurisdictions.

How long does it take to replace a toilet?

Most first-time DIYers complete a standard two-piece toilet replacement in 2-3 hours. One-piece toilets take slightly longer due to the weight and alignment challenge. Pre-reading the installation instructions and confirming the rough-in measurement beforehand reduces the time significantly.

What is a rough-in measurement and how do I find mine?

The rough-in is the distance from the center of the floor drain (toilet flange) to the finished wall behind the toilet. Standard U.S. rough-in is 12 inches. Older homes (pre-1970) may have 10-inch or 14-inch rough-ins. Measure from the center of the floor bolt caps to the wall -- do not measure to the baseboard, measure to the wall surface.

What is a MaP flush score and why does it matter for choosing a toilet?

MaP (Maximum Performance) testing is an independent laboratory program that measures how many grams of solid waste a toilet can flush in a single flush without failure. The maximum score is 1,000 grams. Most modern toilets from TOTO, Kohler, American Standard, and Gerber score 800-1,000 grams. A score below 500 grams correlates with higher clog frequency in real-world use. Published MaP scores are available at map-testing.com.

What is EPA WaterSense certification?

EPA WaterSense is a voluntary labeling program that certifies toilets using 1.28 GPF or less that also pass independent performance testing. WaterSense toilets must flush at least 350 grams in MaP testing to receive certification. Most current premium models from TOTO, Kohler, and American Standard are WaterSense certified. The label matters financially: many water utilities offer $50-$200 rebates for installing WaterSense-certified toilets.

Can I install a one-piece toilet by myself?

Technically yes, but one-piece toilets typically weigh 90-115 lbs and are awkward to maneuver in a small bathroom. Two people are strongly recommended. Two-piece toilets are much easier for a single DIYer because the tank (20-30 lbs) and bowl (50-70 lbs) are carried and set separately.

Do I need to replace the wax ring every time I remove a toilet?

Yes. The wax ring is a single-use seal. Once the toilet is lifted off the flange, the wax is deformed and will not seal reliably when reset. Always install a new wax ring when reinstalling the same toilet or installing a new one. Wax rings cost $5-$15 and are available at any hardware store.

What is comfort height vs. standard height toilet?

Comfort height (also called ADA height or chair height) toilets have a seat height of 16.5-18 inches, similar to a standard chair. Standard height toilets measure 14-15 inches at the seat. Most adults find comfort height easier to sit down on and rise from. Children under 7-8 years old may need a step stool with comfort height models. Most current mid-range and premium toilets default to comfort height.

How do I know if my toilet flange is too low after installing new tile?

The toilet flange should sit flush with or up to 1/4 inch above the finished floor surface. If you installed new floor tile and the flange is now below the tile surface, do not stack wax rings. Instead, use a flange extender ring (available in 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch increments) to raise the flange to the correct height before setting the new wax ring.

Is it worth buying a higher-end toilet like the TOTO UltraMax II for a DIY remodel?

Yes, if the bathroom is a primary bathroom that sees heavy daily use. The TOTO UltraMax II is a one-piece toilet with TOTO's Tornado Flush cyclonic rinse technology and CeFiONtect glaze, achieving a 1,000-gram MaP score at 1.28 GPF. Owner reviews consistently rate it lower in cleaning frequency required compared to standard two-piece alternatives. The higher upfront investment pays out over 20+ years of reduced cleaning effort and zero clog callbacks.

How much water does a toilet actually use per year?

A 1.6 GPF toilet flushed 8 times per day uses approximately 4,672 gallons per person per year. A 1.28 GPF WaterSense toilet uses 3,737 gallons -- a saving of about 935 gallons per person annually. A household of four replacing a 3.5 GPF pre-1994 toilet with a 1.28 GPF model saves roughly 19,000 gallons per year. The EPA WaterSense program has estimated cumulative U.S. savings from WaterSense toilet adoption at over 600 billion gallons since the program launched in 2006.

What is the best toilet brand for a DIY bathroom remodel?

TOTO and Kohler are the top two brands for DIY remodels based on parts availability, warranty support, and MaP performance data. American Standard is the strongest value option and is most widely stocked at big-box retailers. Gerber and Swiss Madison offer solid performance at lower price points. All five brands maintain EPA WaterSense certified models in their current lineups.

Can I tile a shower myself without experience?

Yes, but allow significantly more time than professional estimates suggest. First-time tilers should expect shower surround tile to take 3-4 days including substrate prep, waterproofing, tile setting, and grouting. The substrate and waterproofing layers are the most critical steps -- tile failures in showers are almost always due to substrate problems, not grout or tile quality. Use cement board with a waterproofing membrane or a full tile-ready shower system.

What is the difference between a skirted and a standard toilet?

A skirted (or concealed trapway) toilet has a flat, uninterrupted side profile that hides the trapway curves. A standard toilet has an exposed trapway with the S-shaped curve visible on the outside of the bowl. Skirted toilets are easier to clean (no crevices) and have a more contemporary look. Installation is slightly more involved because the skirted base conceals the floor bolt positions, requiring more precise alignment during install.

Do I need to caulk around the base of a toilet?

Current plumbing code in most U.S. jurisdictions requires caulking around the toilet base. The correct method is to caulk around the front and sides of the base but leave the rear gap open. This allows water from a leaking wax ring to escape and be detected rather than pooling under the toilet and rotting the subfloor silently. Use a mold-resistant silicone or siliconized latex caulk rated for bathroom use.

How do I choose between a round and elongated toilet bowl?

Elongated bowls (about 18.5 inches front to back) are more comfortable for adults and are now the dominant choice in U.S. bathrooms. Round bowls (about 16.5 inches) fit better in very small bathrooms -- a 5x8 foot bathroom with a wall-facing toilet may not have clearance for an elongated bowl. Measure from the wall to the available space in front of the toilet position before purchasing. Our round vs. elongated toilet guide covers the full comparison.

What is the best toilet for a small bathroom remodel?

For bathrooms under 35 square feet or with less than 24 inches of clearance in front of the toilet, consider a compact elongated or round bowl model. The American Standard Cadet 3 is available in a round-front compact version. The Kohler Highline series also offers a compact elongated configuration with a shorter overall depth. Verify bowl projection (wall to front of bowl) against your available space before ordering.

What causes a new toilet to rock after installation?

Rocking after installation is almost always caused by an uneven floor, bolts that are not tightened evenly, or a damaged flange. If the floor is uneven, use plastic toilet shims under the base before caulking. Overtightening one bolt and not the other also causes rocking by tilting the base. If the toilet rocks after even shimming, the flange may be cracked or set at the wrong height and requires inspection before further use.

How do I shut off water to a toilet if the supply valve is stuck?

If the supply valve under the toilet will not turn, do not force it -- old valves can crack and fail. Turn off water at the main shutoff valve for the house instead. Then replace the toilet supply valve as part of the installation. Angle stop valves are inexpensive and straightforward to replace with the main supply off. Install a braided stainless steel supply line (not the thin plastic lines) rated for at least 10 years.

What is the TOTO Aquia IV and is it a good choice for a remodel?

The TOTO Aquia IV is a dual-flush toilet available in one-piece and two-piece configurations, with flush volumes of 1.0 GPF (partial) and 0.8 GPF (full), making it among the most water-efficient toilets available in North America. It carries EPA WaterSense certification and achieves strong MaP scores at its lower flush volumes. It is an excellent choice for eco-conscious remodels or homes on well systems where minimizing water draw is a priority.

Sources

EPA WaterSense, epa.gov/watersense
MaP flush testing, map-testing.com
Manufacturer published specifications
National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) remodeling cost data
International Residential Code (IRC) plumbing and electrical requirements
TOTO published product data sheets
American Standard published product data sheets
Kohler published product data sheets

Our Verdict

A DIY bathroom remodel can realistically save $1,500-$4,000 in labor costs when you handle the toilet swap, vanity replacement, tile, paint, and same-box lighting yourself. The single most important rule: replace fixtures in their existing locations and you stay in DIY territory. Move a drain or add a circuit and you need a permit and a licensed pro. For the toilet itself, the TOTO Drake II remains the most reliable choice for most remodels -- maximum MaP score, EPA WaterSense certified, and parts available everywhere for decades of trouble-free use.

Related Guides

How we rank & our data sources

We do not run physical lab tests. Rankings are built from published, verifiable data and real owner feedback, never paid placement.

MaP (Maximum Performance) flush scores
EPA WaterSense certification & GPF ratings
Manufacturer specifications (trapway size, flush-valve, rough-in)
Verified owner reviews from Amazon, Home Depot & Lowe’s

Researched by Marcus Bell · Last updated June 28, 2026 · Our review method

Researched by Marcus Bell

Marcus compiles bathroom-fixture data, MaP flush scores, GPF ratings, trapway and flush-valve specs, and weighs them against thousands of verified owner reviews to build our rankings. He does not run physical lab tests; every verdict is sourced from published specifications, certifications (MaP, EPA WaterSense) and real owner feedback.

Updated June 2026 · Buying Guides

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